Yashica Tlr Repair Manual
ACP Ikoflex IIa. This page is no longer actively maintained. PardonI would have probably never bothered with this camera if I hadnt inherited. If youve read some of my other TLR twin lens reflex. Yashica Tlr Repair Manual' title='Yashica Tlr Repair Manual' />Im not a big fan of TLRs, mainly because of their. But thats just my taste in cameras. Other photographers. Some keywords vintage fotowinkel rotterdam classic cameras fotoapparatuur lenzen gebruikte foto film apparatuur analoog manual focus fotoshop historisch delfshaven. Some 700 links to photographiy equipment DIY work Repair, modification and construction. Contax, Yashica Zeiss Contax Objektive UnendlichEinstellung justieren, Toothwalker Fredmiranda. Contax Zeiss Planar 50mm1. Sinar Binocular Reflex viewfinder, use on Monorail cameras to focus without a dark cloth. Good condition, signs of normal use. History of the Ikoflex. I dont know a lot about Zeiss, and especially not about the Ikoflex, so Im. D Studio Max 9 Keygen. I dont. You can. Zeiss Ikon made the Ikoflex series of TLRs between the early 1. The idea seemed to be that Zeiss Ikon. Franke Heideckes Rolleicord. If you look at the. Rolleicords and the Ikoflex IIa, their functional. The Rolleicord had a 7. Xenar lens the IIa had. Tessar. The Rolleicord didnt have a self timer neither did the. IIa. The Rolleicord had knob wind instead of the Rolleiflexs crank so did the. IIa. The Rolleicord didnt have a self cocking shutter, neither did the IIa. And. so on. If I owned a Rolleicord Id put the cameras back to back and organise a. I dont, Im going to have to drop further. Pity for Zeiss, but they never really succeeded in pushing Rollei off the. And thats by a long shot. I blame it on Zeiss not getting all the. A closer look. If you take the Ikoflex IIa in your hands, you notice that its fairly small. It beats my Yashica 6. When put next to a Lubitel 2, both have. IIa is much taller. For 3. 5mm. youd call this a big camera, but for 6x. That means its. very portable, and if you have an ever ready case for it, you can wear it around. If you become familiar with the IIa, youll notice that its a somewhat. Oh, its built like a tank and its quality is out of the. Look at the focusing knob for instance. Its just a big flat round knob with knurled edges, a focusing range, a screw in. Oh, its a very good boring knob. Ive ever seen, but its totally uninspiring and. That goes for all of the knobs, for the. This camera was. designed by a structural engineer behind a drawing board who had more eye for. Some niceties were thrown in here and there to make it. Zeiss Ikon symbol on the viewfinder hood or the. U shaped rim around the taking lens, but its all not as. Rolleicord. This camera is very well built. Everything is metal, the finishing is. But. is it ruggedProbably it is, but the black paint and the simplistic design. This is a camera that screams caring amateur use. This in. contrast to the Rolleicords, that always had an image of being very tough. Combine that with their greater appeal, and you have the worlds preference. The lenses. The viewing lens is a Teronar 7. Zeiss Opton. Tessar 7. Compur Rapid shutter with a range of 1s15. B. This. is for my camera your mileage may vary. Ive never heard about the Teronar. Tessar is, of course, a very famous. This one is T coated, so not your. IIas enduring popularity as. I havent shot film so far with my Ikoflex but am planning to, so the bit. I relate about image quality is on hold. The shutter. The shutter may be the trickiest part of this camera. There are a number of. First, never set the shutter. At least, that seems to be the rule. Blue Label Soft Pdf To Excel 3 Serial there. I read on the. Internet somewhere that you can over strain the spring for 15. At first I didnt even know the IIa had. Second, the shutter will only fire under the right. It will refuse duty when the shutter is uncocked, or the. In practice all this means that its hard to go wrong with this. You cant just press the. The most counter intuitive feature to understand is the way the shutter. Namely, it just blocks and does nothing. Then the dial clicks in and the camera is. If you dont press in and rotate the counter, it will keep. A nice. feature of the blocking mechanism is that it shows a white flag in a window just. If you then cock the shutter, youre set to take pictures. There are three control levers sticking outside the shutter assembly one is. The aperture and the shutter speed are read out on the shoulders of. U shaped rim around the taking lens. The big round focusing knob is on the left of the camera, which is a bit. The distance scale runs from infinity to 1m, with close up kits. The shutter release button is on the upper right hand corner, in a. Much better would have. Rolleiflex. The film wind knob. Also on the right is a large X contact or is it M. The left of the camera is. Retract them to free the spools and take them out. On the top back of the camera is a round sliding knob that opens the hinged. On the bottom of the camera is a tripod mount large German brush, 34. The viewfinder. On top of the camera we find the viewfinder. Its the usual chimney type with. The whole assembly. Some investigation shows. In collapsed state, you open the. When the. viewfinder is open, you can access the magnifying glass by first flipping open. The magnifying glass is best used from a. Without glasses, its. If you cant. afford to look into the waist level finder, you can flip up the frame on the. Pity that the ground glass is obscured. The ground. glass itself is a fresnel lens, and fairly dim for todays standards. Dont. forget however that fifty years ago they didnt have very sensitive films, so. A very nice, but probably uncommon, feature on my camera is the German. My uncle, this cameras first. Germany or Austria, and it seems likely that only. On it. you can find rubricised exposure info for 4. ASA film, and some rules of thumb. This camera. dates from the early 1. Loading film. When loading film, make sure that you have an empty spool in the film bay. I. once took this camera out on a photographic excursion, only to discover on. Id forgotten the extra spool. Thats what you get when you only. As a result Ive never actually loaded this camera, so maybe Im. I think it works. Place a film in the. Thread the film. into the empty spool in the top bay. Close the camera. While looking through the. When. arrived, rotate the film counter counterclockwise with your thumb to position 1. Then take pictures, and enjoy this no nonsense. FED 3 type B Matts Classic Cameras. Overview. Here I was, cruising along, thinking I dont really have the Russian camera bug, that I have more of a Japanese camera habit. Then I slowly but surely succumbed to the siren call of soviet shooters and now its like a small collection unto itself If I didnt already have a Zorki 4 I would have gotten a 4. K for the wind lever, though I do love that vulcanite. The 4. K comes with that cheesy ribbed cloth I dislike. Maybe Ill blame it on the photography student that emailed me asking about a FED 3 and whether I thought it was a good beginning, prompting me to research it and a few months later, my friends and I have our own little caches of FEDs. Yeah, thats it. I can stop anytime. I swear. And so say all of us. This is the second version of the FED 3, commonly referred to as the FED 3 type B. The FED 3 type A its not an official designation is a little more classic looking, with a stepped top and a wind knob, very like the rare and potentially problematic Zorki 3. The 3. A is also more collectible than the 3. B as its far less common. The even earlier FED 2 is a real beauty, with a very long rangefinder base but no speeds below 12. To add the slow speeds they shortened the rangefinder base moved the mirrors closer together. Then when they replaced the wind knob with a modern wind lever in the FED 3 type B they extended the top straight across like a modern Leica. Another improvement in the B fixed takeup spool. I wont delve too deeply into the somewhat sordid history of the FED cameras. Suffice it to say that the FED factory in Kharkov was an orphanage turned work commune named for Felix E. Dzerzhinsky, founder of the original Soviet Secret Police. Its a very interestsing story, and you can read all about it on this excellent page, just make sure to come back when youre done I love that site. Oh and put your wallet away or youll find yourself off bidding on FEDs before you know itThe earlier FED 3. A, like the FED 2, came with an Industar 2. Zeiss Tessar copy with apertures from 2. Then they moved to the amber coated Industar 6. Maybe someone could tell me why the Russians frequently use copies of Zeiss lenses on copies of Leica cameras Then they improved it further by adding rare earth element Lanthanum to arrive at the Industar 6. LD, which they used in late 3. B and the rest of the FED line through the 5. The FED faithful say the 6. LD is the best Russian made LTM Leica Thread Mount 3. EVER. The catch is that your mileage may vary as quality control varied, and some of these guys have several 6. LDs so they can choose the best of the lot. By the way, LTM means you can use these lenses on your Bessa R or swap with the Jupiter 8 on your Zorki. The running joke is that for roughly 3. Ukraine you can get a world class LTM lens with a big ugly rear lens cap a FED 5. Sidebar I mentioned to a Russian coworker that I thought the FED 5 was ugly, and her reaction was Ugly Whats ugly about it Woops I forgot that aesthetics is in the eye of the beholder. The 3. B is a solid and handsome shooter, well designed and with a real heft to it that surprises you when you first pick it up. As a user its got a great feel, nicely weighted and balanced, with a lively snappy shutter. Too bad it lacks strap lugs, so you cant realistically hold it in your hot little hands you need to have it in its neverready case if you want to carry it over your shoulder. See below for a compromise tip. To whet your appetite further, heres a pic of the 3. B with a 3. 5mm Jupiter 1. Petri tele wide finder no fair, I know Repairs. Clean as a pin, this one, but the focus ring was a bit reluctant, enough that when turning it counterclockwise the lens would start to unscrew from the mount. Turns out that the grease inside the lens had thickened and was preventing the ring from turning smoothly. This is a common condition for these lenses, and luckily its a fairly easy fix on the back of the lens are three little screws, held in by a light touch of some kind of paint. Scrape the paint off with the tip of your jewelers screwdriver, then unscrew the screws and remove the retaining ring. Clean the ring with a suitable grease cutting solvent, I used Windex. Next is a ring that is set in place with a notch over a set screw, simply lift the ring straight up, then clean the ring and all the grease beneath it I used about eight Q tips in the process. Lube lightly with synthetic grease and reassemble. Now its smooth like butter Tips Tricks. As with the Zorki and any camera where winding on also causes the film speed selector to turn, ALWAYS cock the shutter before changing film speeds Its in the manual but it bears repeating. In fact, go read the manual before even attempting to use the camera, the stuff about shutter speeds is both non intuitive and critical to the proper operation of the camera. Changing film speeds without tensioning the shutter can damage the shutterSpeaking of cocking the shutter, youll at first think theres something wrong with the wind stroke, it feels like its grinding on something. The Grind Wind seems to be a FSU Former Soviet Union camera thing its present but toned down on my Zenit 1. I think it has to do with the way the film counter dial and wind lever are geared together. Here it feels like a ratchet wrench, but I understand that its normal. You get used to it. Diopter adjustment using the ring around the viewfinder, and unlike the lever on the FED 2 Zorki 4 its less prone to accidental adjustment. Nice. Set it and forget about it. NO STRAP LUGS This means you have to have it in its case if you want it over your shoulder. But the leather case is so heavy Inelegant but practical solution from my buddy Ken Smith if you cut around the combo snap with a sharp Xacto knife you get a two piece case that is only half as heavy. I did the same for my Zorki 4 case, I had been wondering how I was going to solve that one.